11 TRUTHS TO KNOW WHEN USING RETINOL
How to use retinol and retinol products, what is important to pay attention to
INNA CODRU , APRIL 28, 2019
Today, retinol products are widely available at pharmacies and cosmetics retailers. You can choose a product for any skin type, for any age and for any budget. A few years ago, things were completely different! Buying "something" with retinol required a trip to the dermatologist, a prescription and a lot of changes in skin care habits to take into account how retinol affects the skin.
Despite all the current variety of offers, retinol and its derivatives are often advertised as a universal remedy for all skin diseases. Yes, they can help smooth the skin by promoting skin cell renewal, and the renewal itself helps with everything from clearing up clogged pores to clearing up acne, hyperpigmentation and wrinkles. Still, there are some nuances to be aware of.
We have already written about how retinoids work , in which cosmetics they are used, how to use , and what drugs are worth trying . Today we will talk about when the risks outweigh the benefits? What are the differences between OTC and prescription drug? Will retinol help quickly? Will it be noticeable or maybe uncomfortable? And most importantly, how can you safely incorporate retinol into your already established skin care routine?
We talked about all this with Danuta Miloch , founder of the popular Rescue Spa in New York, and Whitney Bowe , MD, New York City's leading board certified dermatologist.
THE QUIETER YOU GO, THE FURTHER YOU'LL GET
The best way to be successful when adding a retinoid to your daily skincare routine is to start slowly. (It's frustrating, of course, but it's true!) Both Bow and Miloch recommend alternating days, one after the other, and reducing the amount of retinol used if irritation begins to increase. “Don't rush the process and don't expect immediate results. This is truly a product that can deliver real results, but only if you are willing to take it slow,” says Bowe.
ITCHING, PEELING AND REDENING IS NORMAL... FOR THE TIME
It is normal to experience some skin irritation, especially when you first start using retinol products. “If you find yourself starting to overreact, take a break from the retinoids for a couple of days and then continue,” Miloch says. There is a certain adjustment period when you may need to "be patient", but it should not last forever. If you are still seriously flaky after 28 days, talk to your dermatologist about a different retinol dosage and/or frequency of use.
IN PRACTICE IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH RETINOL IS IN YOUR OTC DRUG
Sad news for everyone who likes to know the full composition of the purchased drugs. If your product isn't clearly labeled, it's impossible to tell how much retinol is inside. This is because the Department of Health does not regulate over-the-counter retinols in the same way as prescription retinols. “I often recommend that my patients start at a very low percentage (0.025%), and we usually start from there,” Bowe said. While some over-the-counter products are labeled as high concentrations of retinol, it's best to start with prescription and low doses - this is the only sure way to control how much retinol you're actually getting.
NOT ALL RETINOLS ARE CREATED EQUAL
Retinol is often just another name for any compound derived from vitamin A, and there are several. Technically, "retinoids" is the primary and generic term for many of the drug's derivatives, says Bowe, "which can include both prescription and over-the-counter vitamin A derivatives. Retinol is one specific derivative that Bowe says can "promote skin renewal, brighten skin tone, reduce acne, and stimulate collagen production in your skin.” Retinol is also available in OTC products. "When retinol is topically applied to the skin, your enzymes convert it to retinoic acid," she said.
Retin-A, also known as tretinoin, is also listed as retinol in formulations, but it works faster than retinol and often causes more side effects. "Retin-A doesn't require the enzyme conversion described above (to retinoic acid)," says Bowe, "so it works faster."
"Retin-A is also much stronger than retinol and therefore a more serious drug. Patients who have never used a retinoid before often experience more severe side effects from exposure to the prescription drug Tretinoin (Retin-A), including redness, burning , irritation and peeling of the skin, she says, but, of course, it all depends on the concentration.
Other names for retinol may sound like trans retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate, adapelene, isotretinoin, and others. Everyone has a different level of effect on the skin, and the concentration within the product also determines how strong its action will be.
Finally, there are other beta-carotene-infused products, such as rosehip oil, that claim to have a retinoic effect, but take even longer to transform on the surface of the skin than off-the-shelf retinol. However, they are without any doubt nutritious and ideal for sensitive skin.
STOP RETINOL IF YOU ARE UNDER CERTAIN SKIN CARE TREATMENTS
"If you're undergoing some type of skin treatment, like laser, microneedling, or microdermabrasion, you'd be better off taking a break from retinol," says Bowe. Miloch adds that you should also do the same before waxing and other active facial treatments that include active masks, peels or microcurrent. Retinol will increase the sensitivity of the skin, which can lead to complications from such intensive facial skin care.
CHANGE THE ORDER OF USE OF RETINOL DEPENDING ON THE LONGITUDE OF SUN EXPOSURE
If you're going to sunny climes on vacation, stop using your retinoids. "I wouldn't recommend using retinol before direct sun exposure, like before going to the beach or before a big outdoor event," Miloch says. And no matter when you use retinol, sunscreen is an absolute must before heading out into the fresh air!
DO NOT USE ANY ACIDS OR OTHER EXFOLIANTS TO CLEANS YOUR SKIN IN THE FIRST TIME
“It is not advisable to be overly zealous in cleansing the skin, thereby irritating it. Strong abrasive cleaners do more harm than good, especially when it comes to the health of our skin's natural invisible barrier,” Bowe said. When the barrier is temporarily weakened by skin-renewing vitamin A derivatives, this is not the time to experiment with acids and other exfoliators, even mild ones. Only after you have entered the desired rhythm with your retinol, you can again introduce these products into your exercise.
WHEN YOU GET USED TO THE PRODUCT, ALTERNATE RETINOL AND EXFOLIATION
There will come a day when you are completely comfortable with retinol. When that happens, it's time to start using exfoliation again. "The day before exfoliating (I recommend exfoliating two to three times a week), you'd be better off skipping the retinol treatment," Bowe advises.
CLIMATE CAN HELP (OR HURT) YOUR EFFORT
Add another level of complexity to all of the above. Starting retinol use during the warmer months will probably be the best time for your skin. “Sometimes in the summer, the humidity level helps you better tolerate retinol,” says Melih, who re-emphasized the importance of sunscreen. On the other hand, applying retinol in drier weather can make the skin more prone to flaking and roughness.
COMBINE YOUR RETINOL WITH YOUR MOISTURIZER
Using a moisturizer after retinol does not reduce its effectiveness. “Many of my patients follow this principle,” Bowe said. The combination of an all natural hydrosol and facial oil will also help protect the skin well.
RESULTS DO NOT COME OVER OVERHIGHT - IT CAN TAKE UP TO SIX MONTHS
"If you're using retinol to treat wrinkles and other signs of aging, research shows you'll start to see more subtle results after about six months," says Bowe. "These results continue to delight you and will become even more noticeable about a year after use." However, some results will be noticeable even earlier, such as acne and hyperpigmentation may be noticeably reduced.